Unabashedly ambitious: Inside Jean Pierre Khoury’s global fashion world

Beyonce took to the stage in a show-stopping vivid crimson creation by Lebanese designer Jean Pierre Khoury. The mini dress was hand-embellished with tens of thousands of crystals and beads, complemented by matching thigh-high boots. The look transformed Western cowgirl references into high-fashion spectacle. A sharply sculpted bodice and a form-fitting silhouette lent a theatrical flourish, evoking the Cowboy Carter era while highlighting Khoury’s masterful craftsmanship. Bold, commanding, and unapologetically glamorous, the perfect ensemble for Beyonce.

It came as a shock to Khoury that Beyonce wore his creation. Her tour was laden with mega brands. “Beyonce’s name in itself turned it into a surreal experience. Her team was top-notch in terms of professionalism; they gave me complete creative freedom. Beyonce is secure, which is the best quality to look for in a celebrity as a designer. When insecurities arise, the most beautiful design can be shattered. It was a very proud moment for me”, says Khoury to The Beiruter. He thought back to when he created dresses in his father’s basement and used to watch the formation tour and dream about dressing her.

Laser focus on career aspirations

The twenty-eight-year-old designer is in full focus on his career, putting romantic relationships on hold till his thirties. “My time and energy are better spent focusing on my work. I even plan my trips months in advance to be able to make them happen and not have work get in the way”.

As an only child, his mother inspired him to delve into a career in fashion. To this day, they are working side by side to conquer his mother’s dream and his own, which is one and the same. “I used to watch her work, and when the fabric she didn’t need fell to the floor, I would pick it up and dress a tiny mannequin in miniature designs. I loved it but never did I think I would make a career out of it”, says Khoury. He had started spending a lot of time in his mother’s atelier since he was three years old.

A journey embellished by stars

When asked what the key to his success was, JP states with a straight face: “I’m a Capricorn. I put it firmly in my head and went for it. I simply love what I do and began executing dresses that were considered weird at the time, mixing psychedelic colours. Couture was classic and familiar then.” From the age of nineteen till twenty-one, he began his pursuit, not listening to the naysayers on his designs. He had attired the renowned Lebanese actress, singer and model Cyrine Abdel Nour in a beautiful black fringe dress with gloves and was criticized for that choice. A year later, gloves were all the rage. A valuable lesson imparted by the famous artist and one of his closest friends Myriam Fares was

To dismiss the negative comments on social media, keep charging and fix your eyes on the prize. Social media is not nice in general, and it disparages the controversial looks and the work.

He gained momentum in 2020 by dressing famous Egyptian actress and model Yasmine Sabri in the Gouna Film Festival. Mary-Jay Blige adorned his design on the cover of Time 100. Lizzo and Megan The Stallion were big names who wore from his first line.

In 2022, he worked with Myriam Fares for the World Cup, the music video, and the opening performance in Qatar. “It was a big moment in my career. Myriam is the celebrity who gave me the most expertise”, admits Khoury, “where performance threads are concerned, they are executed for international standard shows. The weight of the dress, the structure, the comfort, all have to be factored in”. In 2024, Khoury designed four outfits for Nicki Minaj’s Pink Friday tour.

Making a difference, creating impact

In a country still healing, his work often feels nostalgic and futuristic at once. He’s merely attempting to escape the present, as Khoury admits. What’s more, he firmly believes that the way he can make a difference is by becoming more successful on the world stages, creating job opportunities and helping people in his circle as much as possible. He protested in the 2019 Lebanese “Thawra” or revolution and found it futile.

If every single one of us focuses on working on themselves and their craft, Lebanon would become a better country, says Khoury.

In that light, the piece of advice he would give aspiring fashion designers is to “know what they’re getting themselves into. Is it bringing you satisfaction at the end of the day, are you waking up excited to go to work? You have to love to create and to dedicate yourself to it full time and after hours. Additionally, be your own worst critic to improve and evolve. Turn a blind eye to the sceptics”.

Another important detail is that the client needs to feel content with her dress. “As bold as my embroidery gets, the silhouette is simple. My work is pure psychology, you have to meet the client in the middle because at the end of the day it is still a business, a business based on emotion”. 

Khoury’s love for creation led to creativity in the atelier, and this creativity has spilled into other aspects of his life. He is quite the chef in the kitchen, he cooks superb food, the yule log, puff cream pastries, pasta and gnocchi from scratch being some of his specialties.

Eyes on tomorrow 

As he looks ahead, Khoury is most excited about his upcoming sixth collection, and his ready-to-wear line in a couple of years, which is less demanding than customization. The collaborations he is gearing up for are a source of pride as well. His planned trip to Japan, an uncharted territory, promises to deliver on new experiences and fresh findings, keeping his creativity sharp.